Following on from our sold out Manzanilla masterclass/tasting in August and a little precursor to my pending visit to Jerez early September, I thought it might be fun to post a little bit of the dialogue that formed part of the tasting.
We had chosen five wines to taste alongside five little dishes. We jumped in with the delicious Manzanilla ‘Gabriela’ from Bodegas Barrero, this was fresh, crisp and fruity with a lovely saline finish, and just right to kick off the evening.
Next up a delicious briny Manzanilla Pasada ‘Blanquito’ from Bodegas Callejuela. We are huge fans of Callejuela and hope it will still be possible to buy their wines at some point following the recent halt in availability. This Pasada was at least 12 years of age, with more time in the bottle and demonstrated perfectly the age ability of fortified Manzanilla.
Moving on to something a little different, a 100% Palomino Fino white wine from the El Reventon vineyard. Produced by Ramiro Ibáñez of Cota 45, aged under flor for six weeks, then oxidatively for 6 and a half months longer.
Then another fascinating bottle from Equipo Navazos, La Bota 111 Manzanilla "Florpower" MMXVIII, A vintage (2018) single-vineyard white wine, made from 100% Palomino Fino. Following an initial year under a veil of flor in winery butts as a white wine, it was lightly fortified and matured in Sanlúcar de Barrameda for an average of almost three years by traditional biological aging, therefore a Manzanilla. A vintage and single-vineyard Manzanilla.
Our last wine was an Amontillado, a generous wine with a first phase of biological aging under flor for approximately 8 years as a Manzanilla followed on by a second phase of oxidative aging for about 10 years.
All agreed, a great tasting with wines that took us on fascinating journey displaying the diversity of wine styles and how good they were to pair with a whole host of different flavours on the plate.
Manzanilla a quick rundown
Manzanilla is a dry white wine made from palomino grapes, It can only be labelled Manzanilla if it is exclusively aged in the bodegas of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, one of the original vertexes of the Sherry triangle.
This beautiful little city situated at the mouth of the river Guadalquivir which runs along its Northern boundary. On its western boundary the Atlantic and to the north the huge expanse of the Marisma stretch of wetland formed on the river delta. The location of the city in relation to these three natural landscapes creates the unique climatic condition that contributes to the wines characteristics.
The location of the town in relation to the river, Atlantic and flatlands generate milder temperatures and higher levels of humidity than the conditions in say, Jerez or El Puerto. The humidity sitting on the fresher sea breeze (the westerly Aponiente) hangs over the town due to the natural barrier formed by the Barrio Alto.
The unique micro-climatic conditions of the town, both in the Barrio Bajo (lower) and the Barrio Alto (upper) facilitate the growth of a film of yeast (flor) with very special characteristics. This moist air is so very important, the steady humidity and cooler temperature, creates the perfect conditions for the indigenous flor yeasts, to grow more vigorously and thicker in the casks and for the veil protecting the wine to remain active all year-round.
As the wine is so well protected in the cask under this thick layer of flor, the interaction between wine and yeast is very intense indeed, also the wine is separated and kept apart by this barrier and has no contact with air/oxygen, this avoids any oxidisation keeping it bright and fresh retaining its racy salinity.
I hope this offers a little explanation why the biologically aged wines produced in Sanlúcar have special organoleptic characteristics which differentiate them from Fino wines aged in other towns within the region. In recognition of this unique quality within the wines, Manzanilla has the privilege of being a Denomination of Origin in its own right within the Marco de Jerez
Characteristics of Manzanilla
An extremely pale straw-colored wine with very low glycerine levels, gentle acidity, and pungent aromatics on the nose such as fresh cut grass, almonds, fresh warm dough, chamomile and a salty maritime tang.
Manzanilla is very dry, crisp, and lively, with a light, vivid structure and refreshing acidity. It has a savory, slightly bitter finish, a characteristic of biologically aged wines, and an enduring saline minerality.
On occasion, Manzanilla wines can be subjected to exceptionally prolonged ageing periods within the solera system, during this period of time the flor begins to weaken, permitting a slight degree of oxidation producing a "Manzanillas Pasada".
During this aging period the flor yeasts not only consume alcohol, they also absorb glycerol, oxygen, sugars, and acids from the wine contributing to a more intense, drier, fresher, sharp character with more structure. As the yeast cells come to the end of their life (Cabezuelas/ Lees) will fall to the bottom of the cask.
Pasada, aged wines will usually have a large concentration of these dead cells that settle within the cask. Together with the onset of oxidisation from the dissipating veil on the surface of the wine, this leads to a complex texture and character associated with Pasada wines.
For a Manzanilla to be labelled Pasada, the average age of the wine being bottled must be a minimum of eight years.
Some Serving and Drinking Tips
Always serve very chilled.
Use an ice bucket with both ice and water to serve chilled between 6 & 8º C.
Always use a large tulip shape white wine glass as opposed to a tiny copita or elgin glass, give it a swirl and enjoy the aromatics.
Don't leave it dwell in the fridge once opened, it will lose its freshness and aromatics ( you can always search out half bottles in good wine shops) Drink within two days of opening, keep in the fridge.
The wine of the sea
Perfect with fish, seafood and all styles of food from the sea. Manzanilla combines perfectly with fish and seafood, as well as with salted fish and cured meats. Thanks to its low acidity it is the perfect drink alongside salads and dressings, cold soups, tomatoes with sherry vinegar, gildas, salty snacks such as anchovies, olives and nuts.
Some of my favourite food pairings with Manzanilla when visiting the city of Sanlúcar
Sanlúcar langostinos are prized king prawns from Sanlúcar, known for their exceptional quality and taste. They are a protected product with a unique status, making them a renowned delicacy and a must-try food when visiting the town.
Boquerones the top-quality large fresh white Mediterranean anchovies. Filleted and marinated in vinegar before being hand packed in olive oil, in a boxed tin. These make for a smashing Gilda with olives, tomatoes and parsley or simply with bread and olive oil.
Tortillitas de camarones are hot and salty shrimp fritters, a specialty of Sanlúcar. They are made with a batter of tiny locally caught shrimps, chickpea flour, water, onion, parsley, The batter is then fried on both sides in a pan with plenty of olive oil and is one of the most tasty salty snacks known to man!
Clams from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, particularly the local coquinas, are a renowned in the region and a highlight when cooked simply with garlic and Manzanilla
Bluefin Tuna caught using the ancient Almadraba Technique, a traditional, ecological, and sustainable net-based fishing method that involves encircling the tuna with nets as they migrate. Sanlúcar has been a centre for tuna processing and export since at least the 16th century, with a rich culinary tradition surrounding the fish
Prepared and served in various forms, including tartare, sashimi, and tataki, also salted and preserved tuna products, such as mojama (salted tuna loin) that pair beautifully with Manzailla
I could go on, but I think the best way to experience the culinary delights of this vibrant little city by the sea is to pay a visit. Spend a couple of days exploring the backstreets, plazas and beachfront to find the bars and restaurants that serve a little snack or small plate that becomes your favorite bite alongside a big glass of chilled Manzanilla.
Who knows I might bump into you one sunny lunchtime!